Kiss lock bags stitched in needlepoint are a quick and easy project. You get to create a fun little bag for yourself, or to give as a wonderful gift. In case you haven't stitched a piece like this before, I thought I'd give a few tips on how to make the best bag ever.
Stitching the canvas
I suggest that you approach these kiss lock bags as you would a needlepoint belt. Both have a lot of bend and flex in the canvas and get a lot of handling, so stitching with an eye towards durability will yield the best result.
What threads should I use?
I stitch these kiss lock bags with Appletons tapestry wool (I buy mine at HM Nabavian). Appletons may be thicker than you are used to stitching with, but it is very durable and gives great coverage on 13 mesh canvas (I strongly recommend using a larger size 18 tapestry needle with Appletons). I have also used DMC Soft Cotton (retors mat) and Silk & Ivory (though this can get fuzzy and pill with use). Full coverage is desirable because when the canvas fits into the frame, it bends nearly in half--if you use a thread that gives less coverage, the canvas will show through. 
What stitch should I use?
I strongly recommend basketweave. This is the sturdiest of all the tent stitches. It will reduce the distortion of your canvas, it will wear well, and will help provide strength at the seams when the bag is sewn together.
Decorative stitches should be chosen judiciously, if used at all. Anything with a long float over multiple intersections runs the risk of snagging and pulling, either in the finishing process or through use.
Stitching a grayscale canvas
A canvas with the pattern shown in shades of gray allows you to choose any threads colors you want. If you decide to stitch a very dark color on a grayscale canvas, you might want to color the canvas a bit where it will have the most flex so that the canvas does not show through. You can use acrylic paint pens, or Pigma brush-tip markers, to color the canvas. It doesn't have to be perfect, just enough to darken the canvas a little. Other notes:
I recommend stitching on stretcher bars to keep your canvas as square as possible. After canvases are blocked, they tend to drift back to where they started. Unlike ornaments and other pieces that are stitched down into place, these bags move around and the canvas is more liable to distort.
Anchor your threads very securely, especially if you are using silk or a silk blend. The finishing process requires turning the bag inside out, and once finished, the bag has a lot of flex in it. All of this pulls on your stitching and loose ends can pop out of place. And anchor away from the edge especially at the top of the canvas--bulk is the enemy! 
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Stitch only what is on the canvas--no need to stitch extra rows. Your finisher will sew about 2 rows into your stitching and this is already accounted for in the design.
Placing monograms and initials—do not go too close to the edge! You will lose the two outermost rows all around to the sewing, and another 5-6 rows over the bend of the seam, so start your letters about 7-8 rows from the edge. Finishers
I strongly encourage you to have these bags professionally finished. Even if you have made this type of bag before, the sewing needs to be very precise--if you haven't practiced on this exact pattern, you might end up with a bag you're not happy with. Talk to your local needlepoint shop for help with finishing, or if you don't have a local shop, you can try Rittenhouse Needlepoint in Philadelphia. They have a very reputable finishing department that is experienced with finishing bags like these. I will also be taking on a limited amount of finishing, using my collection of new and vintage fabrics! Click here to learn more, and follow me on Instagram to learn when spots open.
Choosing fabrics
Your finisher will have a supply of fabrics to use for the back and lining of your bag. If you are supplying your own fabrics, your finisher can guide you as to what will work best. When I finish for others, I retain full veto power over fabrics sent to me. I want you to have an end product you love, but if you send me fabrics that I can't easily work with, I will present you with some options that might better serve.
Back fabric
If you have a stitched needlepoint for the front of your bag, you can have a second canvas for the back, or you will need fabric for the reverse. This back fabric generally needs to be pretty sturdy and able to stand up to being handled. Good choices: cotton canvas, velvet, denim
Not great choices: thin cotton (like quilting fabric or Liberty fabrics), loose or open weaves, extra thick fabrics (heavy upholstery fabrics)
Lining fabrics:
Your lining fabric should be thin, but preferably strong. The finishing process is not gentle and the lining fabric will bear the brunt of being pushed into the frame, so it has to be pretty sturdy. Thin cotton twill or quilting cotton are good choices; dupioni silk or lawn cotton are a bit fragile and might show wear after being forced into the frame. Your finished bag
The finishing process is tough on your bag. The canvas and fabric get squished into a ball when they are inverted, and pushing the bag into the metal frame sometimes takes a bit of force.
A strong glue is used to secure the bag into the frame and sometimes a little glue can get on the fabric near the frame, and on the frame itself. It can often be gently scratched off with your fingernail (everything in the image below easily came off the frame) and if not, the glue dries pretty clear. 
Just like your stitching, this is all handwork and never perfect. Be kind to your finisher. And enjoy your bag!